Wainscoting is a beautiful and timeless way to add character and charm to any room. However, when it comes to finishing the corners, it can be a bit tricky.
A poorly finished corner can ruin the entire look of your wainscoting. But fear not, with the right tools and techniques, you can achieve perfectly aesthetic corners that will elevate the look of your space.
In this article, we will guide you through the process of finishing wainscoting corners step by step. So, let’s get started!
How To Finish Wainscoting Corners
Step 1: Sand and Color
The first step in finishing wainscoting corners is to sand and color the area. Use a hand block with 100-grit sandpaper to sand the corner. Once sanded, use a stain-matched color marker to color the area. If there is a slight crack, use a color-matched putty crayon to fill it.
Step 2: Miter and Cut
To miter and cut inside corners, turn the paneling over and cut the inside corners the same way. If the wainscoting consists of tongue-and-groove pieces instead of paneling, use the same principle to miter the edges. Use a crosscut blade for best results.
Step 3: Safety First
Always wear safety glasses and breathing protection when operating a table saw. When mitering any piece of wood, be careful of the thin sliver or cut-off piece. Never stand behind a piece after it is cut away from the blade. It can reenter the blade and kick back at you.
Step 4: Start at the Outside Corner
Most installations begin at an inside corner, but if a room has an outside corner, start there. Stick a mitered corner piece (assembled earlier) to the wall with some construction adhesive. Insert shims if the piece isn’t plumb. Toenail 4d nails through both tongues to hold the piece in place while the adhesive sets. Use the level while nailing to make sure the piece isn’t knocked out of plumb.
Step 5: Plan Your Layout
Setting up boards to plan your layout is a great way to avoid mistakes and achieve aesthetic corners. The goal is to avoid odd-looking corners by intersecting the two walls at a wider bead. Furthermore, you want the reveal to match on both pieces.
Shift your setup so that each corner finishes on a wider bead and that adjacent pieces show a similar reveal. Keep in mind that all corners will have a butt joint, and corner pieces will need to be cut so that the exposed reveal matches.
Step 6: Hide Imperfections
A small portion of the beadboard is concealed on inside corners, presenting an opportunity to hide imperfections. For instance, if the corner is out of square, you can hide a small gap.
Tools And Materials Needed
To finish wainscoting corners, you will need the following tools and materials:
– Hand block with 100-grit sandpaper
– Stain-matched color marker
– Color-matched putty crayon
– Crosscut blade
– Table saw
– Safety glasses and breathing protection
– Construction adhesive
– Shims
– 4d nails
– Level
For planning and layout, you will also need:
– Beadboard (choose a non-warping option if installing in a kitchen or bathroom)
– Measuring tape
– Pencil
– Stud finder
– Trim
– Wood glue
– Chop saw
– Jigsaw
– Nail gun or hammer
– Nail driver (nail set)
– Paintable caulk + caulk gun
– Wood filler
– Paint
– Outlet extenders
While some of the tools mentioned are preferred, many can be substituted. For instance, a circular saw can replace a table saw, and a hammer and nail set can be used in lieu of a nail gun. It is important to have the necessary safety equipment and to take precautions when operating power tools.
Preparing The Corners
Preparing the corners is an essential part of finishing wainscoting corners. It involves careful planning and execution to achieve a seamless and aesthetic finish. Here are some steps to prepare the corners for wainscoting:
Step 1: Sand and Color
The first step in finishing wainscoting corners is to sand and color the area. Use a hand block with 100-grit sandpaper to sand the corner. Once sanded, use a stain-matched color marker to color the area. If there is a slight crack, use a color-matched putty crayon to fill it.
Step 2: Miter and Cut
To miter and cut inside corners, turn the paneling over and cut the inside corners the same way. If the wainscoting consists of tongue-and-groove pieces instead of paneling, use the same principle to miter the edges. Use a crosscut blade for best results.
Step 3: Safety First
Always wear safety glasses and breathing protection when operating a table saw. When mitering any piece of wood, be careful of the thin sliver or cut-off piece. Never stand behind a piece after it is cut away from the blade. It can reenter the blade and kick back at you.
Step 4: Start at the Outside Corner
Most installations begin at an inside corner, but if a room has an outside corner, start there. Stick a mitered corner piece (assembled earlier) to the wall with some construction adhesive. Insert shims if the piece isn’t plumb. Toenail 4d nails through both tongues to hold the piece in place while the adhesive sets. Use the level while nailing to make sure the piece isn’t knocked out of plumb.
Step 5: Plan Your Layout
Setting up boards to plan your layout is a great way to avoid mistakes and achieve aesthetic corners. The goal is to avoid odd-looking corners by intersecting the two walls at a wider bead. Furthermore, you want the reveal to match on both pieces.
Shift your setup so that each corner finishes on a wider bead and that adjacent pieces show a similar reveal. Keep in mind that all corners will have a butt joint, and corner pieces will need to be cut so that the exposed reveal matches.
Step 6: Hide Imperfections
A small portion of the beadboard is concealed on inside corners, presenting an opportunity to hide imperfections. For instance, if the corner is out of square, you can hide a small gap.
By following these steps, you can prepare your corners for wainscoting installation and achieve beautiful results. Remember to prioritize safety and take your time in planning and executing each step for optimal results.
Cutting The Wainscoting For The Corners
Cutting the wainscoting for the corners is a crucial step in finishing your wainscoting project. To achieve a professional-looking corner, you will need to cut the wainscoting pieces at precise angles.
Step 1: Measure and Cut
Measure and cut the two pieces of paneling that will fit together at the intersection of a corner, adding 1 inch to the width of both pieces. Use a crosscut blade to achieve a clean and precise cut.
Step 2: Miter the Edges
If your wainscoting includes inside corners, you have a choice about how to cut the chair rail. You can miter the two pieces of chair rail to fit against one another in the corner. That’s the easiest and quickest way. Best practice is to cut one of the moldings full-length to go into the corner with a square end-cut and then cope the next chair rail against that one.
Step 3: Sand and Color
After cutting, sand the edges of the wainscoting pieces with 100-grit sandpaper to remove any roughness. Then, color-match the edges with a stain-matched color marker to ensure they blend in seamlessly with the rest of your wainscoting.
Step 4: Install
Once you’ve mitered and sanded your wainscoting pieces for the corners, install them using construction adhesive and nails. Make sure to use a level while nailing to ensure that your corner is plumb and level.
By following these steps, you can achieve perfectly cut and installed wainscoting corners that will add beauty and elegance to any room in your home.
Installing The Wainscoting In The Corners
When it comes to installing wainscoting in the corners, there are a few things to keep in mind. First, it’s important to note that corners require vertical stiles for proper structure. This applies to both true wainscoting made with vertical stiles and horizontal rails, as well as wall frame wainscoting made from installing frames of panel molding on the wall.
To begin, it’s recommended to start at the outside corner if there is one in the room. This will ensure that the installation is properly aligned and avoids any odd-looking corners. Use a mitered corner piece assembled earlier and attach it to the wall with construction adhesive. Insert shims if needed and toenail 4d nails through both tongues to hold the piece in place while the adhesive sets.
Next, plan your layout by setting up boards to avoid mistakes and ensure aesthetic corners. Make sure that each corner finishes on a wider bead and that adjacent pieces show a similar reveal. Keep in mind that all corners will have a butt joint, and corner pieces will need to be cut so that the exposed reveal matches.
When it comes to cutting inside corners, turn the paneling over and cut them the same way as outside corners. Use a crosscut blade for best results and always wear safety glasses and breathing protection when operating a table saw. Be careful of thin slivers or cut-off pieces and never stand behind a piece after it is cut away from the blade.
Finally, sand and color the area as needed to hide any imperfections. Use a hand block with 100-grit sandpaper to sand the corner, then use a stain-matched color marker to color the area. If there is a slight crack, use a color-matched putty crayon to fill it.
By following these steps, you can successfully install wainscoting in the corners of any room with ease.
Filling And Sanding The Gaps
Step 7: Clean the Surface
Before filling any gaps, make sure the surface is clean, dry, and free of dirt and sanding dust. The area should be above 40 degrees F. Use a clean putty knife to remove any loose debris or excess wood.
Step 8: Apply Wood Filler
Use a clean putty knife to push wood filler into larger gouges and gaps. For small nail holes, you can simply use your finger to press the filler into the hole. Overfill the repair slightly so you can sand it down to a smooth, flat finish once dry. If the damaged area is deeper than 1/8′′ – 1/4′′, apply the wood filler in layers and let each layer dry before moving on.
Step 9: Sand Smooth
Once the wood filler is dried (when it is no longer pink if using Plastic Wood X with DryDex), you can sand smooth using 150 grit sandpaper. It should take approximately 2-6 hours for shallow repairs to dry and up to 36 hours for deeper fills. Make sure to wear breathing protection while sanding.
Step 10: Stain or Paint
Once sanded, you can stain or paint over the wood filler as needed. Be sure to check the label for specific instructions so you can achieve the best finish possible. With these steps, your wainscoting corners will look seamless and professional.
Applying The Finish To The Corners
Step 7: Cut and Fit Chair Rail Molding
Begin by installing the chair rail molding. Cut the chair rail to length and check that the pieces fit properly. Apply a generous bead of construction adhesive on the reverse side of the chair rail molding along its length. Secure it to the wall with small nails.
Step 8: Choose Your Cutting Method
If your wainscot installation includes inside corners, you’ll have a choice about how to cut the chair rail. You can miter the two pieces of chair rail to fit against one another in the corner, which is the easiest and quickest way. However, best practice is to cut one of the moldings full-length to go into the corner with a square end-cut and then cope the next chair rail against that one.
Step 9: Use a Nail Gun
Although you can use small finish nails, a nail gun will make the work go faster. It’s likely to be more accurate and will impart less vibration to the wall than a hammer and nail will.
Step 10: Make Sure Panels are Equal in Length
All of the vertical pieces of picture molding should be equal in length. Set up a stop on your saw to make sure that all of those vertical pieces will be exactly equal to one another in length. This will save you lots of time.
Step 11: Customize Size and Height
You can make picture molding panels any size you want to, making it easy to plan for and around electrical outlets or any other features along the wall. The height of the wainscoting is your choice, but it looks best if you keep it low or align it with some other element in the room.
Step 12: Apply Adhesive and Nails
This wainscoting is made by applying picture-frame molding and chair rail directly to your wall surface with adhesive and nails. You won’t have the luxury of hitting a stud every time, so plan to drive your nails at an angle to help hold the molding tight against the drywall until the adhesive dries.
By following these steps, you can achieve beautifully finished wainscoting corners that will add elegance and charm to any room in your home.